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Friday, June 13, 2025

A Dish Beyond Borders: The Ultimate Filipino Adobo as Told by Claude Tayag


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In the Philippines, adobo is more than just a dish. It’s an heirloom of the soul, simmered in vinegar and memory, seasoned with survival, migration, and the enduring warmth of home. And in The Ultimate Filipino Adobo: Stories Through the Ages, artist, chef, and food historian Claude Tayag boldly declares what many of us have long felt—adobo is not simply a recipe, but a living chronicle of our nationhood.


Tayag’s book is not a typical cookbook. It is a multi-sensory feast, plated in essays, memoirs, cultural commentaries, historical fragments, and of course, a mosaic of adobo recipes that span from the prehistoric to the postmodern. The moment you crack open its vividly designed pages, you enter a deeply intimate but proudly public archive—one that validates every Filipino’s version of the adobo narrative.


The Flavor of Memory

“When you miss home and cook adobo, it smells of home,” Tayag writes. “You are transported back home—not just the physical home, but the memories of eating with your mother and grandmother.”


In this tender line lies the beating heart of the book. Tayag doesn’t impose a singular recipe. In fact, he breaks the myth of the “correct” adobo, making space instead for regional and even personal differences. Whether it’s the turmeric-tinged adobong dilaw of Batangas, the coconut-rich adobo sa gata of Bicol, or the soyless, vinegary Ilocano pinaklay or dinaldalem, each variation is an edible autobiography. Each pot tells the story of a province, a family, a survival strategy.


The boldest truth in Tayag’s exploration? That adobo is a paradox—a fiercely individualistic dish that still unites us as a people. It’s where grandmother’s secrets meet ancestral wisdom, and where invention is not rebellion, but ritual.


A Pre-Hispanic Palate with Colonial Notes

Long before Spanish galleons docked on our shores, pre-colonial Filipinos were already simmering their meats in vinegar and salt as a method of preservation. This proto-adobo practice was later layered with soy sauce introduced by Chinese traders, garlic and bay leaf from the Spanish kitchen, and even techniques from the Americas via the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade.


Tayag walks us through this journey with the curiosity of an anthropologist and the flair of a poet. In doing so, he uncovers how adobo, like the Filipino identity, is a palimpsest—layered, evolving, ungovernable, and yet utterly familiar.


“The Only Correct Way to Cook Adobo…”

“...is the one you grew up with,” Tayag insists.


This radical inclusivity is what makes the book revolutionary. For centuries, elite culinary texts sought to pin Filipino food down, to structure it, to classify it. But Tayag does the opposite. He decentralizes the power. He offers the formula—½ cup vinegar, ¼ cup soy sauce, bay leaves, peppercorns—but then sets us free to riff, just like every Filipino cook does after one glance at Lola’s simmering pot.


Recipes as Resistance, Love, and Storytelling

The book contains dozens of recipes—some from Tayag’s own kitchen, others contributed by chefs and food historians like Angelo Comsti. One striking example is Comsti’s Salty Adobo, a rich blend of pork, chicken liver, and tausi (fermented black beans). It simmers with umami and heartache—the kind of adobo you eat after a long day, in quiet gratitude for survival.


Then there’s Tayag’s own Three-Way Chicken Adobo—a culinary performance that presents one dish in three textures: braised, fried, and glazed. It’s adobo as theater, as celebration, and as proof that this dish is both rooted and revolutionary.


Even a poem finds its place in the book:


“Ay! Ang adobo ni Inang… Mas masarap pag nagtagal.”

“Oh! My mother’s adobo… Like a heart that loves / Gets better when it lasts.”


Gastrodiplomacy and Cultural Assertion

More than a book, The Ultimate Filipino Adobo is part of the Philippine Foreign Service Institute’s gastrodiplomacy series. Following Pancit 101, this second volume aims to arm diplomats, overseas workers, and global foodies with a taste of our culture that no translation can dilute.


It’s our edible flag.


Whether gifted to foreign dignitaries or discovered on the shelf of a San Francisco bookshop, the book becomes an ambassador in itself—declaring: “This is us. We are diverse. We are marinated in history. And we are deliciously defiant.”


Why There’s No Digital Version—and Why That Matters

Curiously, the book is available only in print. No Kindle. No PDF. Just thick, full-color pages that demand your time, attention, and perhaps even a bit of sauce-staining. In an age of ephemeral scrolling, this permanence feels sacred.


Claude Tayag has given us something that refuses to be swiped past or skimmed. Like adobo itself, it asks to be absorbed slowly, returned to, reheated, and remembered.


A Call to the Filipino Table

The ultimate beauty of Tayag’s book lies not just in its content, but in its philosophy: That cooking adobo is an act of love. That eating it is an act of remembrance. That arguing over whose version is best is not divisive—it’s cultural continuity.


Whether you’re in Manila or Milan, Bicol or Brooklyn, this book invites you to the Filipino table—not to dictate how adobo should be cooked, but to remind you that wherever you are, you are home when the garlic hits the pan and the vinegar hisses into heat.


The Ultimate Filipino Adobo is available in National Book Store, Philippine Books, Lazada, and select global sellers. But its message is already everywhere: Your story is valid. Your adobo is ultimate.

Pigafetta’s Feast: How the First Filipino Meals Were Recorded by a Starving World Explorer


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Before Google Maps, before food blogs, and before the word ‘Philippines’ even existed—Antonio Pigafetta sat cross-legged on woven mats, sharing rice and pork with islanders who had no idea they’d just hosted the first Europeans to ever circumnavigate the globe.


In a world desperately trying to stay alive on rotting ship rations and dwindling hope, Pigafetta—the noble Venetian chronicler aboard Ferdinand Magellan’s ill-fated expedition—found salvation in the uncharted isles of what we now call the Philippines. But what he found wasn’t just land, safety, or shelter. What he found was food.


And he wrote it all down.




Landfall and a Banquet of Firsts

It was March 1521. After three harrowing months crossing the Pacific, the surviving crew of Magellan’s fleet staggered onto the shores of Homonhon, an island untouched by European eyes.


They expected resistance. Instead, they were greeted with kindness—and more surprisingly—a feast.


Pigafetta, ever the attentive scribe, recorded with astonishment:


“They presented some fish and vessel of palm wine, and figs more than a foot long…”


Those “figs” were bananas. The palm wine was what we now call tuba, fermented from coconut sap. For men who had barely eaten anything fresh in weeks, it was a banquet worthy of kings. But this was only the beginning.


Dining with Datus: Porcelain Plates and Pork in Gravy

In Cebu, the grand welcome intensified. They met with Rajah Humabon, the local chieftain, who hosted them in royal fashion. Pigafetta captured this cultural marvel as vividly as a modern food documentary.


“Two large porcelain dishes were brought in, one full of rice and the other of pork with its gravy… After half an hour a platter of roast fish cut in pieces was brought in, and ginger…”


Ginger, already used as a spice in Asia for centuries, was the main seasoning in the Visayan dishes. The use of porcelain dishes hinted at established trade routes with China, a level of civilization that stunned Pigafetta and countered European perceptions of “savages.”


And then came the etiquette.


“They ate with their fingers. The king’s cup was always kept covered and no one else drank from it but he and I.”


Here, Pigafetta wasn’t just tasting food—he was tasting culture. He was welcomed as a guest of honor and made to drink from the king’s own cup. In those small moments, the seeds of cross-cultural diplomacy were planted.


The Coconut: Nature’s Miracle, Island’s Bread

Pigafetta didn’t just eat—he analyzed. His obsession with the coconut reads like a scientific dissection:


“Under that shell there is a white, marrowy substance one finger in thickness, which they eat fresh with meat and fish as we do bread…”


To a Venetian nobleman, it was a miracle tree. He noted how it provided water, wine, vinegar, oil, rope, and firewood, all from a single plant. It was the Philippines’ first ambassador to Europe—delivered not through trade, but through taste.


The Bat That Tasted Like Chicken

Not all meals were so familiar. On Gatighan Island, Pigafetta described a surreal encounter:


“We killed one of them [flying foxes] which resembled chicken in taste.”


Yes, Pigafetta and crew ate fruit bats, creatures “as large as eagles.” For a crew starved of meat, these sky-beasts were both frightening and nourishing. To the locals, they were just dinner.


Rice and Ritual

In the pre-colonial Philippines, rice was life, and Pigafetta saw this firsthand. He described the cooking method using bamboo tubes and earthen pots, often lined with banana leaves. He also took note of millet and other grains, showcasing the diverse diet of early Filipinos.


But more than the food itself, Pigafetta was deeply fascinated by the ritual of eating. Meals were communal. Food was served low to the ground, shared from common plates, and eaten by hand—practices that still persist in Filipino homes today.


A Gourmet Historian Ahead of His Time

What makes Pigafetta remarkable isn’t just that he wrote it all down—but that he wrote with respect, curiosity, and awe. While many European accounts of indigenous cultures were condescending or dismissive, Pigafetta’s chronicle was wide-eyed and almost reverent.


Through food, he found humanity.


Through rice and pork, he found diplomacy.


Through coconuts and palm wine, he found survival.


His journal wasn’t just about geography or conquest—it was about connection. He listed over 400 words from local dialects, including 160 Cebuano terms. Many of them were food-related. His work is now regarded as one of the earliest—and most accurate—ethnographic records of Southeast Asia.


Why It Matters Today

Today, the Philippines is hailed for its diverse and flavorful cuisine. From adobo and lechon to kinilaw and halo-halo, Filipino food is a fusion of indigenous, Asian, Spanish, and American influences.


But long before fusion, before colonization, before even the name “Philippines” existed—Antonio Pigafetta sat on a woven mat, savoring fish soaked in ginger, eating rice with his fingers, and drinking palm wine under coconut trees.


And he told the world.


Final Word

In a voyage marked by hunger, mutiny, and death, Pigafetta’s food journal survives as a rare light—a taste of the Philippines before the storms of colonization.


It was not gold or spices or conquest that first united East and West.


It was a meal.


“In food, we find memory. In memory, we find history.”

Let us never forget that one of our oldest recorded stories begins not with a war, but with a warm meal shared among strangers.

Profit Over Protection? SM Store Draws Flak for Children’s Shirts Depicting Foreign Wildlife as Filipino


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In a country blessed with some of the richest biodiversity on Earth, a glaring oversight has sparked a wave of outrage from conservationists, educators, and concerned citizens alike. The SM Store—one of the largest retail chains in the Philippines—is under fire for selling children’s shirts that inaccurately depict foreign animals as part of the nation’s native wildlife.


Instead of proudly showcasing the Philippines' own unique fauna, the designs on the shirts feature species that have no place in our forests, skies, or grasslands: the European hedgehog, the American bald eagle, an Australian sulfur-crested cockatoo, and what appears to be a Kouprey—an extinct species of Indochinese wild cattle that hasn’t been seen in decades.


"Waddahek! How can you sell children’s shirts with such inaccurate depictions of our native wildlife?” was the impassioned reaction from netizens, echoed in reposts of a statement originally shared by Dr. Mundita Lim, a renowned wildlife expert and vocal advocate for Asian biodiversity. The outcry was not merely about aesthetics. It was about truth, education, and respect for the natural heritage we so often take for granted.





This wasn’t just a design flaw—it was a missed opportunity.


In a time when Philippine biodiversity is under serious threat from deforestation, climate change, poaching, and urban sprawl, every chance to raise awareness counts. The SM Store’s shirts, targeted at young impressionable minds, could have been tools of enlightenment. Instead, they’ve become examples of how profit often trumps purpose, and how a lack of basic research can lead to damaging misinformation.


“We appreciate the idea of promoting wildlife conservation,” many commenters shared. “Basta paki ayos lang po. Just get the facts straight.” It’s a fair ask. After all, a simple online search could have introduced designers to the Philippine eagle—the majestic national bird now critically endangered, the adorable but vulnerable Philippine tarsier, or the rare Visayan warty pig. There’s no shortage of charismatic, beautiful, and real Filipino species to feature.


And yet, what made it onto those shirts were animals kids might only see in foreign documentaries or zoos abroad—none of them representing our country’s ecological identity.


This is more than a critique of design—it’s a wake-up call.


We must stop allowing laziness to dictate how we educate our youth. From textbooks to T-shirts, truth matters. Every image, every story, every message leaves an impression. If we're serious about building a generation that will protect our environment, then let’s ensure we’re giving them the right information. Otherwise, we’re not just failing the children—we’re failing the future.


In a country where environmental destruction often takes a backseat to economic development, it’s easy to dismiss this controversy as trivial. But symbols matter. Representation matters. Accuracy matters.


To the SM Store and other brands with the power to influence minds: you can do better. Use your platform not just to sell, but to inform, inspire, and ignite action. Our wildlife—and our children—deserve nothing less.

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