Hong Kong is a city rich in culinary heritage, and its old-school dining spots, especially the famous cha chaan tengs, embody this cultural legacy. One such establishment, Lan Fong Yuen, prominently featured in the pages of this article, stands as a testament to Hong Kong’s post-World War II recovery and its impact on the local food scene.
Lan Fong Yuen: A Hidden Gem of Gage Street
Tucked away on Gage Street in Central, Lan Fong Yuen may seem like just another humble food stall at first glance. However, this eatery is one of the city’s oldest and most beloved cha chaan tengs, with a storied history stretching back to the early 1950s. The founder, Lum Muk-ho, started the café in 1952, and it's credited with popularizing Hong Kong-style milk tea—an iconic beverage that has gained legendary status among both locals and tourists.
The diner is a cozy throwback, with its white-tiled walls and chunky ceramic cups serving up the café's signature tea. Plates of kaya toast, pork chop buns, French toast, and chicken noodles are quick to fly out of the kitchen, and it's not uncommon to see customers eagerly leaning over the wooden tables to dig in. Lum Muk-ho's son, Lum Chun-yip, took over the business in the mid-1990s, helping to carry forward the family tradition. Lum fondly recalls helping make tea and toast while collecting takeaway glasses from customers who lived in nearby tong laus (tenement buildings). "We didn’t use paper cups back then," he says. The nostalgic warmth of Lan Fong Yuen endures, representing not just a café but a quintessential slice of Hong Kong history.
The Evolution of Cha Chaan Tengs
These bustling, unpretentious diners began appearing after World War II, catering to a city in the process of healing. Offering affordable East-meets-West fusion fare, they became the go-to for quick, hearty meals. Today, many of these classic establishments, like Lan Fong Yuen, are still going strong, serving up their signature dishes with a side of nostalgia.
Among the must-visit spots mentioned is the Jordan district, home to eateries like Mido Café, renowned for its scrambled eggs with toast. Whether you opt for a hearty breakfast of macaroni soup with ham or the classic milk tea, you’re guaranteed a taste of tradition with every bite. Some cafés are even beginning to adapt to modern tastes, adding creative spins on old favorites like pineapple buns with black truffle—a nod to the city’s evolving food culture.
Hong Kong’s Quintessential Drinks
No discussion of cha chaan teng culture is complete without a spotlight on the beverages that have come to define it. At the top of the list is the Hong Kong-style milk tea, which originated at Lan Fong Yuen. A combination of black tea and either condensed or evaporated milk, the drink has been affectionately nicknamed "silk-stocking tea" because it's traditionally brewed in a bag resembling a pantyhose. Smooth and rich, it’s the perfect pairing to the café’s buttery toast and warm atmosphere.
Other local drink favorites include yuenyung, a mixture of 30% black coffee and 70% unsweetened milk tea, and iced red bean with evaporated milk, a summer delight of red beans, shaved ice, and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. For a unique twist, locals also enjoy cream soda with milk and the peculiar yet beloved 7-Up with salted lemon, a tart drink said to help with colds.
Savoring Hong Kong’s Heritage
Modern iterations of these beloved cha chaan tengs have begun to spring up in recent years, evolving to meet the tastes of a younger generation. Diners today often care more about stylish interiors and efficient service, but the essence of these cafés—good food served quickly—remains the same. Whether you’re standing in line for a piping hot cup of milk tea at Lan Fong Yuen or enjoying a leisurely brunch at Mido Café, you’re partaking in a timeless Hong Kong tradition that continues to connect the city’s past with its present.
In an age where everything moves at lightning speed, the enduring appeal of these old-school cafés reminds us to slow down, savor the flavors, and appreciate the simple pleasures that make Hong Kong’s culinary heritage so unique.
Tips on Sips: A Quintessential Guide to Hong Kong Drinks
Hong Kong’s culinary scene is known for its fascinating fusion of East and West, but the city’s drinks are equally iconic. Whether enjoyed alongside a traditional cha chaan teng meal or as a standalone refreshment, these drinks are deeply rooted in the city’s history. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular beverages that locals and tourists alike can’t resist.
Hong Kong-Style Milk Tea
Originating from Lan Fong Yuen in the 1950s, Hong Kong-style milk tea is the crown jewel of cha chaan teng drinks. This creamy concoction is made by combining strong black tea with evaporated or condensed milk. What makes it truly special is the brewing technique: the tea is strained through a cloth resembling a silk stocking, giving it a smooth, velvety texture. Known locally as “silk-stocking tea,” it is beloved for its richness and slight sweetness, perfect for pairing with a classic pineapple bun or egg tart.
Cream Soda with Milk
This refreshing drink may surprise first-time visitors with its unusual combination of cold milk and soda. The drink became popular in the mid-1900s and typically involves Schweppes cream soda, which, when mixed with the creaminess of milk, creates a bubbly yet smooth drink. It’s a nostalgic choice for many Hong Kongers, as its unique taste has kept it a favorite over the decades. Today, it’s still a go-to beverage at many cha chaan tengs.
Yuenyung
Translating to "mandarin ducks," a metaphor for a perfectly matched pair in Chinese culture, yuenyung is a blend of two beloved beverages: coffee and milk tea. With a ratio of roughly 30% black coffee to 70% milk tea, this drink delivers a bold, caffeinated punch while maintaining the creaminess and smooth texture of milk tea. It’s typically served hot, though iced versions are popular in the warmer months. The combination of coffee’s bitterness with tea’s sweetness has made this an iconic drink, embodying Hong Kong’s love for blending Eastern and Western tastes.
Iced Red Bean with Evaporated Milk
For many, this drink is a guilty pleasure that conjures memories of hot summer days in Hong Kong. It’s made with sweetened red beans, shaved ice, and evaporated milk, served in tall glasses with optional add-ons like vanilla ice cream for extra indulgence. The blend of textures—smooth evaporated milk, icy crunch, and soft red beans—offers a refreshing yet satisfying treat. It’s a must-try for anyone visiting Hong Kong, particularly those with a sweet tooth.
7-Up and Salted Lemon
A distinctive beverage that first emerged in the late 20th century, 7-Up with salted lemon is a tangy-sweet drink that strikes a balance between sour, bitter, and salty flavors. The zesty 7-Up is mixed with preserved salted lemons, creating a sharp but thirst-quenching concoction. Locals often swear by this drink for its health benefits, particularly for soothing sore throats or common colds. Though its taste may take some getting used to, this unusual drink is celebrated for its cooling properties and stands as a testament to Hong Kong’s inventive beverage culture.
These drinks, while rooted in history, remain integral to Hong Kong’s food culture today. Whether you’re sipping on a hot milk tea during a leisurely breakfast or cooling off with an iced red bean dessert on a humid afternoon, these beverages encapsulate the spirit of Hong Kong’s cha chaan tengs—accessible, flavorful, and full of character.
Ross is known as the Pambansang Blogger ng Pilipinas - An Information and Communication Technology (ICT) Professional by profession and a Social Media Evangelist by heart.
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